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June 2008 Archives

June 1, 2008

Gnarly biking in Rotorua

The good thing about staying with the locals is that you get to go to the good places you'd otherwise miss. Paul took us out to the gentle slopes at the back of Rotorua for a quick mountain bike, and despite Caroline's previous experiences, she still came along. The whole of the forest is a maze of tracks to be explored, and are designed for bikers with gentle slopes along with weaving downhills and jumps to test your balance. The bike's lack of toe clips meant the bike and I parted company on one jump, gravity brought us back together with a bump though. Apart from that I only came off once, the pedal clipping a log and throwing me off onto the soft forest floor - haven't had that much fun on a bike since my school days. Caroline chose to skip those crazy downhills, maybe she has really retired now, or is just more cautious when I say "fun mountain biking"...

June 2, 2008

A Day off...

Sounds odd, having a day off when you're on holiday, but with our stomachs complaining due to a probably dodgy curry (that does not bode well for the India visit!) we were not up to much.

Caroline did manage a half day visit to Kelly's school whilst I found some waterfalls with no water, but in the afternoon there was nothing for it but to enter the dark sanctum of the cinema and veg out to Indiana Jones, ah bliss...

Blow those karts

I could be wrong, but it appears that Papamoa is the world centre for Blokarting, the sport where a sail is attached to three wheels and the wind does the rest. All was going well until we sat in the kart all prepped and ready to go when the wind died down to a whisper. Fair play to the two guys running the place who were determined to get us going and pushed the karts in the hope that the wind would carry us on. The furthest I managed to get was one complete lap before slowly grinding to a halt, and no amount of me pushing would get the kart going on it's own. I'm still not convinced how you get it to go into the wind, but I'd definitely like to try it again on a windier day.

No more campers!

The end of an era has come: 5 months, 3 vans, 2 countries, and 22,000Km on 5 islands and our campervanning days are over, for now. To say we've had fun is an understatement, and whilst we can't deny there's been times we wished to have more than a few cubic metres space to live in, I'm sure we'll do it again sometime.

With our belongings nearly shoehorned back into our rucksacks we checked into the Auckland hostel and marvelled at the space afforded to us, and the fact that we didn't need to convert the bed each night.

June 4, 2008

One last leap

Our last full day in New Zealand, and what better way to sign off our stay in New Zealand than jumping off something. However, the only thing you can jump off also happens to be the tallest structure in the southern hemisphere, the Auckland Skytower, standing at about a third of a kilometre tall. Donning a rather fetching jumpsuit and stepping into the familiar harness I was standing in the lift with a glass bottom watching the floor disappear beneath me, trying not to think about the fact that I'll need to somehow convince my legs to throw me off. In mere seconds (it was a quiet day and a slick operation they run) I was outside, standing on a ledge 192 metres above the ground, clammy hands gripping on to the rail, coming close to hitting the abort button in my head. But no, must do this one last jump. Waving to the camera with what can only be described as pure apprehension, I moved to hang on to the final two rails before preparing to let go, and passed on the invite to look down. A short countdown and somehow my hands let go of the rail, moving quickly to grab the harness for an odd sense of safety. Hang on a minute, this is actually fun! After a few seconds of hanging around, the wind started whistling past my ears, and the ground started moving up. The fall felt quite relaxed, even though moving toward the ground at 85km/h the harness still pulled back so it wasn't like a freefall. 12 seconds later and it was all over, would I like another go for free as it was so quiet? Damn right!

P.S. Cat - That jump was a cracker, right?! It's so easy to imagine you calm-faced jumping off that ledge, in fact did you run off? ;-)

So long New Zealand, hello home.

Ah, New Zealand, we're sorry to leave, every day has been an adventure with something around the corner to explore, amaze, wonder at the glory of, excite, or simply scare the pants off you. There really is something for everyone here, beautiful vistas, unique wildlife and adventures to be had, and I'm sure we'll be back again.

But all good things must come to an end, and today we flew back to Sydney to meet Caroline's parents. Now you'd think with all this flying around the world that nothing would impress, but the Emirates airplane has the pinnacle of in-flight entertainment. Not only could you choose movies, music and games, the whole thing worked on a touch screen (jealous, Cat?) and also had live camera feeds from the front and bottom of the plane so you got a pilots view for take off and landing, who needs movies when you've got that!?

Arriving in Sydney was like coming home, it was easy to navigate the airport, we knew where the bus was going and recognised streets and buildings on the way to the hotel. Then there were the familiar faces of Caroline's parents to greet us to our home for the next few days - that's pretty permanent for us!

June 6, 2008

The McFadyens Down Under

The best thing about being in Sydney with my parents is that we will be seeing it in style, and so feeling suitably rested after our night in a luxurious hotel (a far cry from our 5 months of sleeping in a campervan) we set off to revisit some of our old haunts. It seemed as though Sydney was going to pull out all the stops and put on a good show, beginning with the weather. Despite it being almost mid-winter the sun was shining gloriously and so it seemed only appropriate to head to the beach. It was a perfect day to be at Coogee beach and we were almost fooled into thinking it was summer (to be fair a Sydney winter probably is hotter than a Scottish summer!). After breakfast on the beach and a brief paddle in the sea we were ready to walk along the coastal path towards Bondi. There were even a couple of humpback whales blowing and frolicking in the distance. At my favourite beach, Bronte, Si and Dad went for a swim and mum and I lounged on the beach, well we don't want to exert ourselves too much!

Feeling rejuvenated we braved the last stretch and made it to Bondi in time for a spot of lunch at Icebergs. We enjoyed our food whilst watching the brave swimmers facing the cold of Icebergs pool and the Bondi surfers catching some waves, albeit tiddlers.

Our day of Sydney highlights was rounded off perfectly with a glass of bubbly at the Opera bar, we had just sat down when the fireworks began to light up the harbour bridge - it was almost as if Sydney was welcoming us back. Unfortunately mum and dad were sleeping off a touch of jet lag back at the hotel and missed the fireworks but we appreciated them. Thanks Sydney, it's good to be home.

June 9, 2008

More Sydney Sights

Our tour guide role carries on for another day, showing Caroline's parents the glitzy Sydney sights such as the Rocks market, the IBM Darling Harbour office where I used to work, and Paddy's market - home of cheap Chinese Australian souveniers. We even managed to take a look at the Fruit Bats at the Botanical Gardens, or more accurately let them look at us from their tree top hanging positions, before the rain set in. Our excellent idea of going to a photo exhibition was a tad too popular with everyone else in Sydney, so we retreated to the hotel for room service and an in-room movie, I think we've taken to hotels a little too well...

Climbing the Coathanger

As you know, we've been in and around Sydney for a good few months, and in the nick of time (our last full day) we've squeezed in one of the top Sydney attractions: a walk up to the top of the harbour bridge. All four of us slipped into the attractive grey suits, attached belts and clipped on all manner of bits before walking out underneath the roadway to the famous arch of the coathanger. The walk was nice and easy, and soon we were on top of the arch peering down at the harbour below and off into the misty distance. At the peak we were 130 metres high, which somehow felt higher than the Auckland Skytower (192m), and way taller than the canyon swing (113m). Must make a mental note not to compare all heights to things I've jumped off, you know, just to keep the temptation at bay (as the guide said, if the bridge was in New Zealand there would be 3 bungies and a flying fox from the top).

The climb finished and left us with half a day to fill, so braving the rain we caught the ferry across the harbour to Manly to promenade and eat fish and chips, well it's what you do!

Blue Mountains in the mist

The weather forecast warned us of rain in the Blue mountains, but we paid little heed (and the hotel was booked anyway). What we hadn't banked on was actually being in the rain cloud so that there was literally nothing to see. The viewpoint for the three sisters looked out to a white nothingness, and even a walk to the base of the first sister didn't reveal any more. So it was a good job the hotel was nice (Lilianfels, the Orient Express hotel from Caroline's birthday) and had a roaring fire going. Of course we're on more of a budget than Caroline's parents so we were in the local YHA, but still got to use the pool, stay warm and eat the good food, well that's the best bit isn't it?

June 12, 2008

Wet Katoomba, wet Sydney

Our chances of seeing the blue mountains were dashed as we awoke to heavier rain than yesterday. Polishing off an Eggs Benedict breakfast (a tradition when visiting Katoomba, and something everyone should try), we managed to find the station in the mist and boarded the train for Sydney.

Sydney wasn't much better though, but the hotel was in the shadow of the harbour bridge, and as we had free passes to go up the turret we idled away the afternoon in there. Unsurprisingly, I didn't take too many interesting photos (but I did take some Cat!), so here's a photo of Sydney sans Opera House. There was public outcry at the time, as the disused tram depot would be knocked down to make way for the Opera House, go figure!

Big Country

There have been quite a few demonstrations of how big Australia is, and a four hour flight across two time zones where you land in the same country has to be one of the best. Yes, we've left Sydney for most probably the last time on this trip and headed across the continent/country to Perth. At least the weather was fine as we landed and were met by Caroline's uncle to spend a few days exploring Perth. Caroline's aunt and uncle live on a golf resort where the kangaroos regularly get in the way of the games - how Australian can you get?

June 15, 2008

Rotto

Ah, the Aussies, such a great race - why say the full name when you can shorten it and stick an "o" at the end? So, catching the ferry from Freo (Fremantle), we crossed a bit of the Indian Ocean (probably "Indo Oo") to Rotto (Rottnest Island). The name Rottnest originates from early settlers who came, saw the native Quokka and presumed the place was infested with rats. Now I've seen a fair few rats, and I'm not too sure how you could mistake what looks like a small wallaby the size of a cat for a rat. In case you wondered, the one in the photo is crossing a bike lane, and isn't half the size of a car... Wildlife abounded, with a rather ferocious pelican guarding the jetty, almost stopping me from taking a closer look at the huge manta ray swimming along the beach.

The sun shone, the roads were blissfully quiet for a leisurely bike ride and the sun set over the ocean with a deep orange glow. All in all a great summers day, albeit in the middle of the Perth winter.

Perth

Either Perth is a very laid back, quiet and chilled out city, or Saturday is a good day to explore a new place. Or could it be the nice sunny day? Starting off with Kings Park we walked through the grounds, passing people enjoying the sun and climbed the double helix staircase of the DNA Tower for views of, well, some trees! Around the corner we did get a good look at the city centre, a smattering of high rises with the Swan river meandering past. Come to think of it most Australian city centres are clean and tidy with big modern glass skyscrapers - something mostly missing from UK cities (ok - London has a couple, but Perth has loads and is tiny in comparison). With our feet tired out with a day of walking, we retreated to that other trademark of Aussie cities - the beaches!

June 17, 2008

Taste blasts from the past

Today's day trip with my parents took us to Hilary's Boat Harbour. It being Sunday the harbour was pretty heaving so in an attempt to avoid the crowds we took to the beach where dad had a run and I'm afraid to say I was not feeling fit or energetic enough to join him! Instead I got myself a Boost smoothie something I've missed since we lived in Sydney.

Feeling suitably chilled out after relaxing on the beach with my smoothie we drove back to my aunt and uncle's for a culinary treat that was a taste blast from my past. Singapore curry. It used to be a Sunday tradition in our house. And I was reminded that almost everyone in my family can cook a mean curry and I haven't learned yet (something for my to do list when we return.) My aunt's curry was delicious....

June 18, 2008

Planes, no trains, and automobiles

Not a particularily interesting day today, but an eventful one nonetheless. Realising that we were booked on an exceptionally early flight out of Perth, we tried to change to a later, more civilised time. However, it turned out we weren't booked on any flight out of Perth, or technically we were but 2 months ago and were no shows on that flight as I was carrying a couple of mountain bikes up a hill in New Zealand. A few phone calls later and it turns out that the airline who had rescheduled our flights thought we were on the right flight, but the airline actually flying us didn't. You'd think they have some sort of computer system to do these sort of things without hassle ;-). At least we managed to have our tickets reinstated without much fuss, good job we tried to move the flight, although in the end we were just glad to be able to fly at all.

The only job left to do was pick up the hire car in preparation for our big drive north. It was almost tempting to get another campervan, but those days are over, and the lure of a car with cruise control was too much!

Unsurprisingly I didn't take any photos today, so instead here's one of the manta ray from Rottnest Island, the thing was huge (that's my shadow next to it!) and effortlessly swam around the shallows, it was definitely worth risking attack by pelican to see it.

Long straight roads

Western Australia is big - a third of Australia, and many times the size of the UK. There's hardly anyone living there either, and nearly all of them are in Perth. So as we drove north, we were quickly in farming country with huge fields, then that disappeared and there's just the road, red soil and bushes stretching off forever into the flat distance. Given all that, it's surprising to see quite a few caravans and the huge road trains (think articulated lorry plus an extra couple of trailers) plowing up the road, it's a good job the roads are long and straight so that we can actually overtake.

500km later we reached Kalbarri, the first interesting place since Perth and the only place for the last 200km that was more than a petrol station. The huge waves of the Indian Ocean crashed onto the rocks whilst they dwarfed the surfers stupid/brave enough to be towed out by jetski to tackle them. Feeling bored of the car, we took a walk to look at the coastal cliffs, where the flat land abruptly stops and falls into the sea. The clouds stretched off into the interior of Australia until they met the horizon, just another sign of how big this place is.

Shark Bay

The little (150km+) peninsula surounding Shark Bay has quite a bit going for it. To begin with, there are a colony of stromatolites, bacteria that has hardly changed for the past 3 billion (yes, billion) years, and are responsible for changing the atmosphere to 20% oxygen so that life as we know it could start. Or, as Caroline put it, a bunch of rocks in the sea.

The bay is also the first landing site for the Europeans, the Dutch who landed here 300 years before Cook. Neither they nor the French who followed showed much interest in the land, and as soon as they did, Britain was quick to claim it as their own.

Just to contrast my ramblings of how big a place Australia is, today we bumped into Dirk, the guy who rented our first camper from Sydney. So not only did we meet one of the few Australians we know in one of the remotest places in the country, it's also about as far as you can get from Sydney. Maybe the world is quite small after all.

Dugongs and dolphins

Monkey Mia is famous for the pod of dolphins that frequent it's shores, in no doubt encouraged by the fish fed to them 3 times a day. We'd fed dolphins on the East Coast, so were happy to avoid the crowd getting wet, cold feet in the sea and instead watch from the pier (the dolphins only got a couple of fish anyway), as well as catch a glimpse of a sea turtle swimming about. The bay is also world heritage listed for the huge sea grass fields, which means dugongs (sea cows) live here, and we just had to catch a boat to try and see them. By now we're 1000km north of Perth and although the sun is warm, the sea is not, which makes me agreeing to be the only one on the boat to sit and be dragged along the cold water in the boom net a little odd. The trip was worth it in the end, dugong were spotted munching on the sea grass in the distance, and although we couldn't get close because of the shallow water, it's another wild animal crossed off the list.

June 19, 2008

The Pinnacles

We'd been warned by Caroline's uncle that they weren't impressive, but we took the detour to see the Pinnacle rocks anyway, well we've got to do something to write in here haven't we?

The rocks stand upright in the patch of sandy desert, looking like a cross between termite mounds and a henge created by a very hyperactive druid. A convenient driveway weaved through the sandstone rocks and meant we didn't need to get out of the car, but we were glad to be out of it really. With our photos taken from every possible angle, we drove on to Perth, our little northern excursion complete and looking forward to the comfortable abode of Caroline's aunt and uncle (and of course her aunt's cooking!).

Freo

Fremantle looked like a nice market town as we'd caught the ferry to Rottnest, so for Caroline's parents last day, we explored what the markets had to offer. The town square could easily have been in Italy or France, dominated by the two old churches and smell of coffee being drunk by old men on a bench with caps on. We had a little trouble finding the markets themselves, and there wasn't much else apart from the usual Australiana on offer. Not that we could actually buy anything as we're trying to travel light and reduce our load, not increase it!

Look who we found

We may be on the other side of the world but recently we seem to be having a pretty good run of meeting up with people we know, mum and dad, my aunt and uncle, Dirk the campervan man and today the Oldhams. I worked with John O at school in Southampton but since then he and has family have emigrated out here. We met up with John and his boys at the aquarium (good job since it was bucketing down with rain!) They may only have been down under since Christmas but already I would say they are well on their way to being authentic Aussies. Jack and George have almost got the surfer dude hairstyle (it's growing in nicely), they know all about the many dangerous animals down here and they've even had a few visit them in their garden. They maybe haven't quite got the accent just yet but John's got a ute and the boys love fishing (you can't get more Australian than that!) They certainly seem to be enjoying the lifestyle down here and it was fab to see them so well settled. Of course I was completely smitten with little cheeky chappie Oscar again and wanted to steal him (I did try but he cried so I gave him back!) Like the locals that they are they left us with a reccomendation to check out the cheesecake shop. Now usually Si loves his cheesecake but we have not been impressed with the Australian's take on it. However, tonight all that changed, turns out that cheesecake from the cheesecake shop is to die for delicious. What a shame we are leaving Australia for good in a just a few short days (I wonder how much cheescake we could fit in before then).

Wet kangaroos!

Well we've gone north, so it'd be rude not to go south. A combination of the weather turning wet, and the fact there's not too much to do in the area when it's off season, wet and cold (even the tourist information manager was stumped...) meant that the highlight of our day was spotting some rain drenched kangaroos. Better still, one had a joey squirming around in her pouch, but it was still a slow day.

Minted

The pressure was on for me to do something crazy, leap off something or generally scare myself somehow for my 30th birthday, but I'm getting old and need to slow it down. So we went to Perth Mint, watched them pour gold bullion and had the official commemorative coin made for our World Tour. That's more like it, much more mature. (ok, we couldn't actually find anything to jump off, we'll keep looking!)

I'd also like to say a big thanks to Mel, my little big sister who compiled an album of photos of my life and stories from friends and family, along with getting it hand delivered to me here in Australia - it really made my birthday special. Thanks as well to everyone who wrote something, and I hope Mel gets reinstated on Facebook after being flagged as a spammer for sending too many anonymous messages!

June 23, 2008

Singapore

It was not by choice that we got up at 4:30 am this morning, but after the debacle over our flights we were just pleased to still have one to Singapore, even if it was hideously early.

By now we are becoming somewhat connoisseurs of flying and with our flight to Singapore we have now sampled the last of the airlines that we are scheduled to fly with on this trip. So how does Singapore Airlines compare? Well, we were a little disappointed with their inflight entertainment which Virgin Airlines still holds the top spot for. See how we research these important things for you! It's not all one big holiday you know :)

After almost ten months down under in Australia / New Zealand, Singapore was the culture shock we expected. The first thing to hit us as we stepped off the plane was the humidity which I'm not sure we will ever get used to. Then during our taxi ride to our hostel the heavens opened and the torrential downpour began. In just a few short seconds whilst running from the taxi into the door of our hostel we were drenched. Guess we will have to get used to this since we have come to this part of the world during monsoon season!

Our hostel is in the Little India area of town which as you can imagine has lots of character. But I'll get to that in a minute, first: the hostel. We chose it because it had good reviews and I can see why, it is clean and in a good location. However, the best way to describe our room would be bijou! There are two single mattresses on the floor and then just the tiniest space beside them to prop up our rucksacks. The toilet / shower combo is described as a Singapore special. Just imagine a toilet cubicle on an airplane, complete with the concertina door plus a shower over the toilet. Hindsight may be playing tricks on me but I'd almost say the shower toilet in our first NZ campervan was bigger. However small room and toilet aside, all is forgiven because our room has air-conditioning. Bliss.

We collapsed on our beds for awhile waiting for the rain to stop. When it soon became apparent that it had no intention of stopping, we braved an outing. We managed to duck and dive under shop awnings until we found an umbrella stand and then we ventured off towards Mustapha's, a famous shopping centre in Little India, known for stocking everything you can possibly think of at bargain prices. We managed to dodge the crowds and buy a few bits and pieces, the most exciting being Tiger balm (just in case we ever get a headache or an insect bite - hopefully not!)

My aunt had advised us to go in search of a banana leaf curry in Little India but unfortunately we failed on that mission. Although not for the lack of trying, in fact I think some of the restaurantuers that we asked if they had banana leaf currys were quite offended. One response was; No banana leafs, we have plates!! To absolve him of his indignation we felt obliged to eat at his restaurant and it was very yummy even if there was not a banana leaf in sight.

June 24, 2008

Bintan

After wrestling with the shower / toilet combo we ventured out into Little India in search of some brekie. Since we didn't really fancy curry so early in the morning I'm ashamed to say that we ended up in that ubiquitous fast food 'restaurant' with the yellow arches! Don't worry, we won't be making a habit of it, especially since Si wasn't too sure about the panackes and maple syrup with sausages and cheese combo - doesn't sound quite right at any time of day does it? Whilst wandering Little India and checking out some wonderfully colourful temples we found Racecourse Road, home of the banana leaf curry. And sure enough there were numerous restaurants advertising said curries. Vowing to come back to sample them some other time we headed back to the hostel to pick up our bags, we had a ferry to catch.

We decided to go to Bintan, firstly to see my parents who were spending the last couple of days of their holiday there but also because it is in Indonesia and so gave us an excuse to receive another stamp in our rapidly filling passports. The Angsana resort in Bintan is a little slice of paradise. Our room is luxurious, the pool area is lush and the beach is straight out of a travel brochure. We spent the day relaxing by the pool and diving in for a cool, refreshing dip now and then.
Dinner tonight consisted of freshly caught fish on the beach. Heaven. Already we never want to leave.

June 25, 2008

More sitting by the pool

The weather gods were smiling on us today, during breakfast the sky turned black and there was a heavy tropical downpour, just enough to entertain us whilst we ate, cool down the air, and clear out the pool. By the time we got to the pool, the sun was out in full strength and we got down to some serious sun, swim, sun, snorkel, sun routine. Not that we don't appreciate all this easy living, our holiday thus far has been as amazing as it has been long, and it still doesn't feel right that we get to do all this stuff!

Caroline's parents left today too, the original plan was to spend a couple of nights, but then I'm not too good at reading itineraries! We had dinner down at the beach again, but this time with musicians and countless different types of Indonesian/Malaysian Satay skewers (including little squids!) - the prospect of Malaysia is looking better by the day!

June 26, 2008

Byebye Bintan, Ni Hao Chinatown

All good things come to an end, but at least we had until the afternoon on Bintan before being dragged kicking and screaming to the Singapore Ferry. No longer will we have waiters who keep coming around to pour your drink for you, place your napkin on your lap, or fold your towels if you go for a swim. There's even a mini culture shock back in Singapore when nobody smiles sweetly and says hello when you pass. In short, we liked Bintan, if you're passing through Singapore at any point, make sure you visit!

Our next hotel, whilst not a touch on the Angsana in Bintan, is in the middle of Chinatown. We also arrived at the best time to experience Chinatown - dinner time! Our first call was to the food street, deftly avoiding the "pig liver" stall we made for the Thai stall and had spicy chilli chicken, the even hotter Mee Goreng noodles and pineapple rice - served in a pineapple! So simple and so nice.

Next was of course the markets, so cheap yet so full of useless tat, like silk tissue box covers, I mean who has a need for that? So we only bought three.

Animals in the Dark

We've been in Singapore for a couple of nights, we haven't done much sightseeing, although shopping and eating do seem to be a big proportion of the tourist to-do lists.

Around the corner from the hotel is the Buddhist Tooth Relic Temple, a modern (there's a car park in the basement!) temple, full of buddha statues and gold. The sceptic in me wondered why they emphasised inner peace resulting from giving money to the temple, and every brick and tile could be sponsored. I suppose they are at least being open about it, and there was a whole lot of gold to pay for.

That evening we went to the zoo, or more accurately the one and only Singapore Night Safari. Suitably laden with mozzie repellent we caught a tram around the park, making out the dusky shadows of animals as we drove past - the photo is of a rhino, and about as good as they got, so unusually for me, I just watched the animals. Finally we wandered around the walkways, constantly imagining mozzie bites, but seeing the animals when they are naturally active puts a new slant on a visit to the zoo. It would've been good if the bats in the walk-through enclosure weren't so active!

June 28, 2008

Shopping in Singapore

It's what every tourist brochure we have found tells you to do in Singapore, so today we went shopping. We began in what should have been shopping heaven for Si, Sim Lim Square, an electronics shopping mecca. Indeed his eyes were goggling at all the gadgetry on offer but alas it was quite expensive and all the shops had the same boring stuff.

Next up was a return trip to Mustapha's in Little India. We must have been feeling in the mood for a little crazy but it was the cheap shoes that lured me there. We are hoping to go for drinks in Raffles later and I'm not sure they will let me in with my flip flops!
Cheap shoes in hand we set off to do the touristy thing around Clarke Quay (and buy yet another pair of shoes!). We found the statue of Sir Stamford Raffles, a rather dapper looking man who was responsible for creating Singapore as the international trading post it has become today.

In the evening we met up with a local, my friend Faz from university. It was fab to see her despite the fact that it reminded me that it has been almost ten years since we left uni, man we're getting old! Anyway Faz took us to Arab street where we had a meal in a Morrocan restaurant almost at the entrance to the mosque (we made sure not to embarass Faz by trying to order a beer!). One of the most interesting aspects of Asia so far has been the food so I feel the need to describe the new things that we try. Tonight I had chicken tangine which is chicken and potatoes cooked in a clay pot and served with pitta bread. Very nice. Si had a kebab so I don't really need to describe that.

After our meal Faz drove us up to Mount Faber for a drink overlooking the views of Sentosa Island, the city lights and the oil refinery! She then dropped us off at our hotel where she informed us with a grin that we were staying in the red light district. (I hope she was joking!)

Raffles - not so posh

Having been lured into buying cheap tickets for the bird park, it seemed rude not to go. The talking birds were suspiciously quiet, giving you odd looks when you talked to them (maybe I need more of a chinese-english accent), but at least we weren't as bad as another western tourist who tried speaking to every single bird in the park in the hope they would talk back (which they didn't!). It was also weird seeing the Australian birds captive in a zoo, like the Australian Pelican that had a fish wriggling in it's mouth, and was then chased around by another, much larger pelican in hope of a feed. As soon as we walked into the Lorikeet enclosure (another Aussie bird, a small red parrot), one landed on Caroline who screamed, so it landed on me instead, pirate style. At $2 to feed them, who could resist, within seconds a flock of them had landed on me, all jostling for a slurp of the murky brown liquid, and only outnumbered by the gathering Japanese tourists. Occasionally, one would take a nibble of a t-shirt or finger, I wonder if they get bored of the same old slop (the birds that is, not the tourists...).

With 2 pairs of shoes to choose from and only one night to drink in Raffles, Caroline had to pick her favourite. Saying that, we needn't have got dressed up so much, the place was full of tourists (who'd have guessed!), and the floor littered with peanut shells that crunch unpleasantly underfoot, as the thing to do is eat peanuts and chuck the rest on the floor (if anyone knows why please let us know). But we had our one or two Singapore Slings, revelled in the colonial surroundings and left, another landmark done.

Ricketty trains

Today we left Singapore again, this time by train and in the direction of Kuala Lumpur. Just before we crossed the causeway to Malaysia, and only minutes after leaving, everyone had to get off the train, go through Singaporian Immigration then get back on, I'm sure there's an easier way. We didn't get a stamp in our passports for Malaysia, the train just carried on, hopefully we don't need one...

The train had left half an hour late, and the driver seemed intent on making up the time, but the train did not agree. Rocking furiously from side to side, it made me wonder what it would take for a carriage to come off the rails. To get between carriages required a leap across a wobbly bit of metal, with the tracks whizzing past underneath. Even after safely navigating that, there was the small matter of open carriage doors. Not so bad until you add the movement of the carriages. After several attempts I concluded that it was safest to just stay in our seats!

All fun and games though, seeing as we made it to KL in one piece. The taxi system here is the best, you pay at a counter in advance before even finding the taxi - no bartering, unexpected charges etc, just pay and go. Our British pounds stretch a bit further here (the taxi ride cost £2:10, how far could you go for that in the UK?) and so we have splashed out on a rather plush hotel, our room is great, and so long as you push your nose up to the glass of the window and squint a little, it boasts views of the top of the Petronas Towers, sweet!

June 30, 2008

Kuala Lumpur

Another day, another city to explore. Since the Petronas Towers is probably the most famous building in Kuala Lumpur we decided to make it our first port of call. Unfortunately our late night last night and our buffet breakfast with its many tempting offerings (we passed on the curry - not for breakfast!) meant that we were too late to get one of the free tickets up to the skybridge. So for today we had to make do with amusing ourselves in the tat, I mean tourist shop (selling every conceivable souvenir emblazoned with the towers or in the shape of the towers) and in the huge shopping mall at the base of the towers. I know it sounds like we spent a lot of our time at the moment in shopping malls but don't worry we are not enjoying ourselves and spending lots of money on fine clothes, mainly we are just enjoying the air conditioned comfort!

We were in the mood for going up a high building today so we headed towards the KL Skytower, which is the fourth tallest communications tower in the world. We didn't think 100 extra metres (compared to the Auckland tower) would make much difference but when we got up there it really did. It was high and everything down below looked like little dots. Even Si wasn't tempted to do anything crazy like jump off from this height. Which was just as well since the 'adrenalin' entertainment in the form of a flying fox (only from the base of the tower which is at the top of a small hill) looked pretty tame. We weren't quite sure what all the screaming was about, we could only conclude that these people obviously haven't been to New Zealand.

As we left the tower we saw a couple of monkeys hanging around the sign that read 'Don't feed the monkeys' (ah, if only they could read!). The sight of Malaysia's answer to the kangeroo tempted us into the city rainforest walk to see if we could see anymore. Sadly the monkeys remained elusive, however we did encounter some wildlife, in the form of our arch enemies the mosquitos (is there no escape?)

On our way home we called into the Malaysia Tourist Centre and ended up trying lots of exotic Malaysian fruits, some nice, like the hairy mangosteen, some not so nice, like the rotten feet smelling durians, that are also banned from many public places, including our hotel!

Hopping around KL

Once again our day began with a visit to the Petronas Towers in an attempt to get up to the skybridge. But despite us being much earlier today (well it was before ten am!) we were still too late to get a ticket (turns out there are only one thousand given out each day and people start queueing at eight am! Not sure we are THAT keen!)

We may have mentioned that it is hot here but just to paint a picture, it is so hot that merely walking down the street and around the corner from one sight to the next leaves you hot, sweaty and exhausted. The only solution was to do the lazy touristy thing and jump on the KL Hop on Hop off bus. It probably took a lot longer than walking by the time the bus navigated the congested traffic of KL but the air conditioned comfort made it so worth it.

We hopped off at many sights from Freedom square (with KL's answer to Big Ben), parliament house, the National Palace (reminiscent of Buckingham Palace where you peer in the gate but the most interesting thing to look at are the armed guards on horse back!) a colourful Hindu temple, the National Mosque (impressively simple inside but with the capacity to accomodate 15,000 praying muslims at any one sitting. Wow.) And lastly Central market where we practised our bartering and bought some more things we shouldn't have.

The Batu Caves

We have seen so many caves on this trip already that we almost gave the Batu caves, on the outskirts of town, a miss. Good job we didn't though, nevermind stalagtites and stalagmites, these caves have something completely different to offer. They have become a Hindu shrine and as we drew close in the taxi we could see the huge gold Hindu statue reaching up into the sky.

To get to the main Cathedral cave you have to climb 272 steps which in this heat is quite a climb but it's ok as there are several well-fed monkeys hanging around the steps to entertain you on the way. At the top and in the cave it is hard to notice any cave like features among the Hindu shrines and statues but once again it is the monkeys that steal the show.

Unfortunately I don't know enough about the Hindu religion (I know I should being a teacher!) but the myriad of colourful and interesting statues of the many gods certainly do inspire me to want to learn more. Like the huge green monkey/tiger/human god statue. Not surprisingly Si was very interested in the statue of the half cow, half topless woman god.

The next cave was a Hindu art gallery and the best word to describe that would be unnatural! There was not much regard shown here for the ancient cave formations since they were painted in bright rainbow colours which complemented the colourful Hindu art work beautifully! Through the back of the cave we were surprised to find an almost impromptu reptile zoo with snakes, turtles and mini crocodiles. We weren't really sure about the environmental / conservation policies here, especially since outside there were a couple of monkeys being kept in a cage whilst being taunted by one of the free monkeys leaping about on top of the cage!

About June 2008

This page contains all entries posted to Simon & Caroline's World Tour 07/08 in June 2008. They are listed from oldest to newest.

May 2008 is the previous archive.

July 2008 is the next archive.

Many more can be found on the main index page or by looking through the archives.

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