Cruising West Coast style

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Leaving Hokitika this morning we were immediately hit with a stunning view over the massive snow-capped Southern Alps, mountains that look old and rough, but are actually quite new. It seemed that every stop we made on the way down offered something new and amazing to look at, whether it was mountain views, mirror-smooth lakes, or odd turquoise rivers.
By lunch we’d made it to Franz Josef, and booked ourselves in for a couple of tours over the next two days, which will be unlike anything we’ve done before. I’ll not spoil the surprise, you’ll just have to see if we have enough energy tomorrow to write about it!

Going underground

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Today’s adventure managed to squeeze in a little bit of everything. Our Underworld Rafting trip began with a short bus ride from Charleston to a steam train which took us through the bush alongside the Nile river. We were dropped off at the changing room (a bench in the middle of the forest!!) where we struggled into our wetsuits and a whole other host of paraphanalia required for our impending adventure. We were then presented with an inner tube (think big rubber ring) which we carried across the river, through some more forest and then up into the cave. Inside, the cave we lugged our inner tubes past impressive stalagtites, stalagmites, columns, shawls etc. They were all pretty similar to the steliothems (!!) we saw in Oz except that those formations were almost 10 times as old as today’s offerings, simply because New Zealand is so much younger geographically than Oz.
After we had been carrying our inner tubes for what seemed like an age we were finally allowed to get in them. We all linked ourselves together in a long chain in preparation to paddle down the tunnel of love. We had all turned our head torches off by this point so it was pitch black inside the cave but then as we turned a corner and looked up we were treated to the most impressive array of glowworms twinkling away like stars in the night sky. Pretty cool.
We drifted past two awesome cave entrances where it was quite beautiful to see daylight after so long underground. Next came the fun part. The reason for carrying those inner tubes all morning. We got to ride the rapids of the river back to our changing room and the train. With bums lifted to avoid a river smacking, we all made it safely back to dry land with only one capsizer amongst us (done in style Cat 🙂 It was all quite an adventure and very good value for money, we were even provided with photos without paying the fortune usually required on these kind of trips. Fantastic! (You can actually check these out on the website if you wish; www.caverafting.com Just follow the links to the pics for Underworld Rafting, morning of the 6th of April.)
After a slap up lunch to refuel we were on the road again. Next stop pancake rocks. An impressive rock formation set amongst a coastline not too dissimilar to the Great Ocean Road. The rocks themselves are made up of layer upon layer of thin rock which looks like lots of stacks of pancakes. Hence the name. Some more spectacular winding road later (including two very narrow one lane bridges also used by trains) we pulled up the van in our campsite for the night. What with all our adventures and the clocks having gone back an hour we are suddenly in need of a kip! Good night.

Is it a bird? Is it a plane?

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No! It’s supersimon! Adventurous activity for the day (as it’s New Zealand, you have to do at least one a day!) was the superman ride at New Zealand’s longest swing bridge. They strap you into a harness and let you run (or tentatively walk) off a platform to glide across the gorge over the river, past the precariously positioned photographer (thanks Cat!) to the other side The idea was to hold a superman pose all the way, but that felt a bit silly, so it turned into a plane ride pose, and of course that doesn’t look daft! There was also some gold panning, but that was about as successful as last time we tried, and the sand flies nearby were biting as though they hadn’t seen flesh for a few days. Another country, another breed of biting insect!
The drive on to the coast was spectacular, the road hugging the deep, churning Buller river and reverting to single track as it cut into cliffs. Camp for the night was next to the sea in Charleston, our first free campsite, complete with long drop toilet, the things we’ll do to save £10!

Kayaking the Abel Tasman

Our day of kayaking started with a cold morning, making us put on layers of thermals that only needed removing after our briefing as the morning sun got warmer. The kayaks were quite fancy, with compartments, waterproof skirts to keep our legs dry and rudders to steer. Our guide Tom took us across the bay to Abel Tasman National Park with it’s tree lined valleys that drop all the way to the sea. Kayaking really does give you a unique perspective, up close to the shore and going at quite a pace to fit it all in. Morning tea and lunch were provided, one of the best reasons to go on a guided tour in my book, but we were left to walk ourselves down the coast to the waiting water taxi ride home. Whilst waiting for the taxi, there were loads of sand flies that not only hurt when they bite, they also leave your bite bleeding, and they’re smaller than mozzies too!
With all that rowing and walking we deserved that cuppa at the end, and it does mean we’ve done a fair bit of Abel Tasman, so time to move on tomorrow!

Nelson

The little city of Nelson doesn’t look as though it will detain you for long, but it does have a few things of interest. First off, there’s the Lord of the Rings jeweller, that had replicas of the actual ring, including a 6 incher used for the opening scenes. Then there’s the weird cathedral spire, grey and hollow, looking a bit like it’s made from scaffolding. Finally, there’s the geographical centre of NZ, inconveniently at the top of a huge steep hill. At least it got our blood flowing and our cheeks flushing!

Damn wind!

Andrenalin pumping, we drove to the airfield of the Picton skydivers. A flight was just about to leave with one place on it, and as the plane only took two anyway, Cat volunteered herself to go. In no time she’d donned a jump suit and comical hat and had boarded the little Cessna. As we waited for the little parachute to appear above us, the sun beat down and it was generally a gorgeous day. Cat gently touched down and told of the freezing air as she left the plane, but amazing views over the Marlborough sounds. We were all psyched and ready to go, but the wind had other ideas, changing direction and making a safe landing unlikely, our jump was put on hold. Two hours later we gave up, New Zealand has more tandem sky dives than anywhere else, so I’m sure there’ll be more chances.
To compensate, we detoured on our drive to Nelson and visited Happy Valley Adventure park and their Skywire, essentially a gondola ride with no brakes Great fun, but not quite on a par with a skydive!

Bye Mum!

Time is surely flying by, with our goodbyes said to Mum they were steaming off on the ferry to Wellington to complete their tour of the North Island before heading home, makes you realise how short holidays normally are! It was great seeing Mum and Ian and sharing some of our holiday with them, we do appreciate the effort when they or Dad have come to visit!
With the glorious day ahead of us we drove the windy road back to the campsite, stopping at every other corner to photograph the Queen Charlotte Sound, and for me to scare Caz and Cat each time I parked near the cliff edge. We took a walk along the Queen Charlotte track, a 3+ day hike through forests with views over the sounds, we managed about an hours walk before dipping our toes and heading back, well the best views are meant to be at this end, so that’ll do for us!

Dolphins, Haggis and Glowworms

Today we made our way to Picton in preparation for waving off Si’s mum and Ian to the North Island. As we drove towards the water side we were blown away by the beautiful view of the Queen Charlotte Sound. We had booked a Dolphin Explorer boat trip for later and we couldn’t wait to get out on the water. We passed our time with a wander around the shops and a quick swizz at the ninth oldest boat, The Edwin Fox, which carried convicts to Australia and immigrants to New Zealand back in the day. Helen and Ian took to the skies in a seaplane to see the Sound in style and came back so enthused about its beauty that we were even more excited about our boat trip. And it didn’t disappoint. The views of the hills and mountains surrounding the Sound were breath-takingly beautiful and even though I haven’t seen the films I know they are reminiscent of much of the back drop of the Lord of the Rings trilogy, especially when the mist discends. We were not long out on the water before we were joined by a massive pod of bottlenose dolphins. Despite being almost twice their size these guys were not going to be out done by their acrobatic cousins, the dusky dolphins. They announced their appending arrival with spectacular dives and flips and then continued to entertain us and test our photographic skills by taking it in turns to surf alongside our boat. The rest of our boat trip, although pleasant enough, was quite tame in comparison. We disembarked briefly on Motuara Island to see some birds, including some Little Blue Penguins and then again at Ship Cove, a favourite bay of Captain Cook who spent considerable time here during his three trips to New Zealand.
Back on dry land we treated ourselves to a last supper at The Flying Haggis, a Scottish pub that served surprisingly good Haggis, Neeps and Tatties, as well as a tasty Irn Bru (at one stage it looked as though we might not be able to drag Cat away!)
After all that excitement we were expecting to just settle down for the night at a campsite. But Smith’s farm was no ordinary, run of the mill campsite! We were greeted with warm, freshly baked muffins for a start! And then despite it being almost bedtime, Chris the owner took us out on a guided walk up into the hills, past sheep and some shy calves, across streams to see glowworms. Not a bad start to the week.

If you can’t watch it, eat it!

Kaikoura is famous for its marine wildlife, especially the resident whales, so our plan was to go on a whale watching boat trip. The wind had other ideas, and with our tour cancelled due to bad weather we vowed to return (and find Mum a whale watch near the UK somewhere), then continued up the coast.
Not far along we passed Nins Bin, promising freshly cooked crayfish, and green lipped mussels, New Zealand delicacies. The crayfish is like a small lobster, and the cook (Nin?) had helpfully sliced the beast down the middle, revealing the egg sacks. The mussels were huge, three times the size of others I’d eaten, but they went in the mouth whole! Now I’m not one for shellfish, but Mum and I had a good crack whilst Caroline nibbled and prodded, and Cat and Ian stayed at a safe distance. Here’s hoping I avoid any food poisoning!

Playing Chicken with the Seals

With the day starting off watching a huge pod of dolphins swim past the campsite, jumping, back flipping and generally having fun, you could tell it was going to be a cracker. With our exceptionally tight full on wet suits squeezed on (including hoods!), we stepped into the ice cold ocean, contemplated running out again, and caught the boat out to the seal colony, passing by the dusky dolphins that swam and jumped around the boat, what a bonus! Sliding into the water, and taking a few minutes to get used to the cold water trickling into to the wet suit, we swam to the rocks and came face to face with three seals darting around the water. They’d swim up to our faces, staring us out with mouths open as if ready to bite before darting off in another direction, they also did this amongst themselves, and aparently the game is to see who runs away first – the seals always won in our case! With most of the group too cold or too sea sick to carry on, I was just about to get out when the seals picked up the pace and also started doing jumps, a nice farewell!
Mum and I had fun hurtling down a flying fox at the campsite that night, it was great until the tree at the end got close and you just weren’t sure if you’d stop this time. Well if the other kids can do it, so can we, and I did have parental supervison!