Our muddy re-embarkation to the ferry revealed not only a tiny boat with seats inches apart, but also twice as many passengers as before. Amid passenger complaints of “get another boat!”, the ferryman cast off and headed down the river, no doubt mentally swimming in the cash just earnt. So on we went with a slight list to one side, stopping off at villages to pick up yet more passengers, as well as their chickens, rice and pigs. Some boarded via overhanging branches, others plodded through mud, but one enterprising young man of about 5 had a shuttle service going, and was furiously paddling people from the shore. He was obviously doing a roaring trade going by the wodge of notes in his back pocket, but then Laos doesn’t do coins. We also navigated some hair raising rapids, as well as passing big brown swirling vortices. The water was like chocolate milkshake, so we had no idea how deep it was or what lurked beneath, I just hoped the driver knew what he was doing.
Seven hours later we pulled up to Luang Prabang, reputedly the prettiest town in South East Asia, and with a definite French feel to it. It is also home to a night market filled with merchandise that puts Chiang Mai’s market to shame, and we were especially glad we’d emptied our bags a few days back!